To gain freedom and confidence in cue delivery it is quite good practice to play with a moving ball. Place the cue-ball on the centre spot of the "D," play it straight up the table over the line of spots, and then send the moving ball back again and again as often as the process can be repeated. Miss-cues are sure to be fairly plentiful at first, or it will be found that inaccurate cue delivery imparts so much side that the ball makes for a side cushion instead of returning to baulk. The ideal stroke brings the ball straight back to the cue-tip time after time, but very few indeed can hope to keep this up for more than a strictly limited series of strokes. The same type of stroke can be played across the table on the baulk line, placing the cue-ball either on the centre spot of the "D" or any other convenient place on the line. This test will be found decidedly easier, but, all the same, the player will not find it a simple matter to keep the moving ball on the line, and he will not have to wait long to see a ball loaded with unintentional side returning at an impossible angle.
The spot stroke has been completely neglected by amateurs since it was somewhat injudiciously "barred" from their game. But the stroke is well worth practising for the command it gives of the indispensable winning hazard, to say nothing of the possibility of a revival of "all-in" games between amateurs on account of the B.C.C. rule permitting such games by mutual arrangement. It is not our intention to write at length on the various ways in which the spot stroke can be played and position for it gained. For practice purposes it will be quite sufficient to place the red on the spot, and put the cue-ball from eight inches to a foot behind it. The cueball should be not quite in line with the red and the corner pocket, just a little closer to the top cushion, so that a plain ball stroke played almost full on the red and only hard enough to pocket the ball will make the cue-ball follow through slowly and come to rest in a corresponding position on the other side of the table.
It is impossible to show the exact position in a diagram, but a few trial strokes will soon show where to place the balls. With practice quite a useful run of spot stroke can be made from this position without losing control of the balls, but sooner or later it will be found that owing to striking the red a shade too full the cueball will come to rest either directly in line with the red or even slightly lower down the table. Unintentional side will produce much the same effect, but whatever the cause, the succeeding stroke is the same. If the balls are dead straight with the pocket, and not too far apart, the straight screw back may be attempted. This was handled very effectively by the old school of professionals, but if the average amateur succeeds in making three or four consecutive hazards from this position he has done very well indeed. If the cue-ball is beyond the straight line in the direction of baulk, position can only be regained by a stab played to send the cue-ball back into position off the top cushion, or a run through played to regain position via the top and side cushions. It all depends how far the cue-ball is down the table, the nearer it approaches, the baulk the more likely is the stab stroke to be required. But, of course, when distances are mentioned in connection with the spot stroke, the merest fraction of an inch makes all the difference as regards the type of stroke required.
Diligent and intelligent practice alone can show exactly the stroke required to cope with every grouping of the balls, and a few hints from a professional are of the utmost value. It is open to argument whether it is policy for an amateur to attempt to regain position for the spot when the cue-ball is down the table, and those who decide to relinquish all idea of the "spot" under such circumstances should practise with the idea of leaving the cue-ball favourably placed for the familiar half-ball loser off the spotted red.
This is not so difficult as attempting to regain position for the spot hazard, as even if the true half ball is not left, something so closely resembling it is presented that the stroke should be well within the power of an ordinary player. There is, however, one position which is always cropping up during spot practice, which is well worth special study, especially as it often occurs in actual play when a spotted red has been potted. We refer to the position presented when the cue-ball comes to rest a few inches behind the red, and almost dead on a line drawn through the centres of both, balls and parallel with the top cushion.
The winning hazard is quite possible from this position, and it is always made by the few professionals who can make three-figure breaks at the top of the table. But it is quite by way of a "trap" for the average cueman, as, more often than not, he will just miss the hazard and leave the red on the brink of the pocket for his opponent. It is far safer to abjure the red winner and open up the game by means of a follow-through loser played with plenty of side.
This stroke is not anything like so formidable as the winner, the strong side on the cue-ball enlarges the pocket, and in the event of failure it is the white instead of the red which hovers over the top pocket. It can be made repeatedly by putting as much pocket side on the cue-ball as the player can impart and striking the red very nearly full. The right strength just enables the cue-ball to reach the pocket absolutely spinning with side, and should leave the red well placed in the centre of the table for a loser from hand. It is a very useful stroke, and should be mastered by all amateurs, as it provides a sure way out of a difficult position, which is continually occurring when ordinary players fail to control the balls at the top of the table.
While on the subject of run through strokes it may be mentioned that it is not always necessary to put top on the cue-ball to make this class of stroke. As a matter of fact, "top" is only absolutely required when the cue-ball has a considerable distance to travel after coming into contact with the object ball. Plain ball striking is quite sufficient for the majority of follow-through strokes, but the thick contact demanded calls for well-judged strength—a smashing stroke will result in a kind of "stun," which spoils everything. Cue delivery must also be studied most carefully, especially when side is utilised to facilitate the entry of the cue-ball into a pocket or to complete a cannon off a cushion. The cue must invariably be swung freely and naturally when these strokes are played, a "snatchy," half-fearful kind of stroke is sure to fail. Of course, there are many strokes of the "follow" variety which cannot be made without "top," and plenty of it, possibly in conjunction with as much side as can be given to the cue-ball when it is struck high. But there are many others which can be handled much more effectively without striking the cue-ball above its centre to an appreciable extent, and a thorough knowledge of these strokes is well worth practising to obtain.