So much has been written about the half-ball stroke that it seems almost impossible to say anything new on the topic. But while novelty may be out of the question, it is an undoubted fact that in spite of all which has appeared in print the average tyro is still more or less ignorant as regards the half-ball stroke. We are tempted to say that the measure of his skill depends on his acquaintance with this key stroke to billiards, and we are certain that if he attains an effective control of the stroke he will not remain in the ranks of beginners. The man who can make seven or eight consecutive half-ball lowers off the red into the top pockets from hand, with the object ball placed anywhere in the vicinity of the centre spot, will beat a great many more players than will beat him, and this is why the novice should spare no pains to practice the stroke assiduously and weld it into his game.
The first thing to remember about the half-ball stroke is that, like the line in art, it depends for its effect on severe simplicity. Any attempt at elaboration, any deviation from the hard and fast rules laid down, may give a scoring stroke, it may even provide a beautiful stroke, but not the half-ball. This is exactly where the average beginner comes to grief. He thinks that a mere trine of side on the cue-ball, or a shade of difference in the contact with the object ball, does not matter a great deal either way; but the truth is that these small points make all the difference between success and failure. The half-ball stroke is a scientific proposition, it depends for its effect on the exact application of known laws, and any variation simply spoils everything.
To make the stroke with ivory balls, place the red on the centre spot, and the cue-ball two feet four inches from the side cushion and on the baulk line. We will assume that you have placed the cue-ball on the right side of the table, and have taken your measurements from the centre of the ball to the face of the cushion. Very well, proceed by aiming to make the extreme edge of the cue-ball progress in a direct line towards the centre of the object red. Our illustration shows exactly what contact should be made, and expresses our meaning far better than any amount.of written description.
As a rule, the novice will be apt to strike the red far too tine, and will fail because his ball will strike the top cushion. If the cue-ball hits the side cushion he may be sure that side has been used, or that the stroke has been played too hard. If it has been played much too hard the stroke may be missed by inches even if a perfect half-ball contact is completed, and we may say at once that the right pace for the stroke is that which brings the red into position over a centre pocket via three cushions.
If this pace is employed, and the cue swung freely and without a jerklet it go right through the ballthen the half-ball loser into the top pocket becomes,a scientific certainty, always provided the cue-ball is struck correctly. This point is so important that it demands special mention. You must hit the cue ball in its centre to make a half-ball stroke. Possibly, just a shade above the centre us not worth quibbling about, but any appreciable amount of side makes success out of the question. Here we have the whole problem clearly stated. The half-ball stroke must be played without side on the cue-ball, it must make a contact with the object ball as shown by our artist, and it must not be played so hard that it becomes a "forcer," which destroys the natural angle. We hope to refer to the subject again in our next issue, but if during the ensuing month novices who read these hints will practise on the lines described they will do very well indeed, and will doubtless be eager for further instructions from...
More often than not, when the balls are dealt out for pool, to determine the rotation of players, the marker puts the required number of balls in the pool basket and gives them a vigorous shaking before proceeding to deal them out. This is all wrong, there is no need to bang the balls about in this way. A set of dummy balls, about one inch in diameter, made of hard wood or ivory, should be provided and.subjected to the rattling process. (They can be bought of any billiard table firm.) If this is done, the pool balls, especially if they are ivory, will last longer, and the day when they will require adjustment will be postponed considerably.
John Roberts, the elder, is reported to have possessed more power of cue than any other billiard player, tie could knock two balls off the table from almost any position; a feat, so far as we are aware, not 'within the game of any other cueman. But we have seen his son, the present John Roberts, make a ball strike a side cushion and bounce back over the gas bracket.
Among players who play a useful game, it is remarkable to notice how seldom one finds a really good winning hazard striker. This is doubtless due to the fact that with the exception of Snooker, pool games have dropped out of fashion of late years, and the young player has no particular encouragement to specialise in winning hazards. But the abolition of the spot has also told against the cultivation of the red winner; the result; is that in far too many instances players who have quite a respectable average fail over a winning hazard which ought to be well within their.scoring powers. We feel sure a great improvement would result if advantage were taken of the B.C.C. rule, which states that" Spot-stroke play may, if the players agree, be arranged for. "f it was the exception instead of the rule to play "all-in "billiards, then a much-needed improvement in winning hazard striking would soon become manifest.
At this season of the year the amateur enthusiast contrives to get in a good deal of useful practice, or, rather, he has time and opportunity for such practice. But the practice will not be very "useful "if it takes the far too common form of entering a billiard room and banging the balls about more or less promiscuously while waiting for a possible opponent. Like everything else, billiard practice must be carried out thoroughly and intelligently if the best results are to be obtained.
First of all, there are some general rules which ought not to be overlooked. It is no use practising with untrue balls on a table which has "gradients" or is covered with a cloth badly in need of renewal. The cue, too, must be good, and it may be said at once that for serious practice the amateur really must have a cue of his own. It means as much to him as a private bat means to the cricketer, or a racquet of his own to the tennis player.
Having settled these preliminaries, the player desirous of obtaining profitable practice during the summer months should work on a settled plan arid stick to it. Many plans can be suggested, but it is safe to say that practising the half-ball stroke is an excellent foundation on which to work. Place the red on the centre spot, and practice the half-ball stroke into the two top pockets. Make up your mind to play the stroke well, to leave the object ball in position for a red loser to follow into the middle pocket. Keep at this until you have made, say, three consecutive losers into the right top pocket, and three into the left top pocket. Then, another day, try for four losers into each pocket, and if you persevere with this stroke you will improve your game tremendously.
For a change, the half-ball loser off the spotted red with the cue-ball in line with the middle pocket can be tried, and so can the extremely useful half-ball cross loser off the spotted red with the cue ball in line with the opposite top pocket. These positions are perfectly familiar to students of the game, and this article is intended to help those whose knowledge of billiards extends beyond the elementary stage. In each case, of course, no stroke must be considered a success unless good position is left. Failure in this respect must not be slurred over, but must be thought about and eliminated by intelligent practice.
Having played the half-ball stroke at the commencement of each round of practice, it is advisable to proceed on lines which will call for the mastery of a variety of strokes. The Badminton "Billiards" outlines a useful plan in the following words: "Place a ball over each middle pocket for easy losing hazards and play the break from hand. After each break record the scores, and after five or ten trials take the average." This is excellent practice, and a little of it might follow the half-ball work.
One other suggestion; place the balls in a good position, and then make up your mind to score a break of useful magnitude, having regard to the quality of your game. Keep at it until you have effected your purpose, and when you break down, before commencing afresh from the original position, try to make the stroke which closed your scoring effort. Next day, add one point to the break you set yourself to> make, and if you continue adding a. point every day you will soon reach your limit, but you will find that your game has improved greatly during the process.