J.B. (Manchester).—Yes; it has been several times suggested that a coloured ball be used in place of the spot White. A Mr. Brand made many attempts to introduce a Yellow ball, but the proposal never met with a favourable reception; and for a long time past nothing has been heard of it. We see no reason for taking the matter up in our columns, as you propose, because in our opinion the yellow ball would disconcert many players, and in certain lights might be confused with the white ball. Any other colour would be too brilliant.
Scientific Cueman (Maidstone).—By all means send us the article you have in mind, although we fear it is scarcely possible to devise a plan which will enable positions on the table to be recognised by means of a series of abbreviations similar to those used in chess. Your idea of dividing the playing surface into sections and giving to each distinctive numerals is not altogether new, but strikes us as impracticable, as the dividing lines cannot be actually marked on the table. However, we shall be pleased to give your views publicity, provided they are not too abstruse to be of general interest. Arbitrary signs should be made quite simple. Both cushions and pockets were long ago given certain numbers by which they are recognized by experts and writers on billiards. The baulk cushion is numbered one, the next cushion to the left is No. 2, and so on round the table from left to right. The Cushion at the right hand side of the baulk is No. 6. The pockets are numbered in the same way, commencing with that at the left hand corner of the baulk. This is not difficult to remember, yet most players are ignorant of it, or do not trouble to commit it to their mind.
The Club Steward (Liverpool).—Those cues have been spoilt by a vicious trick far too common in many billiard rooms, and the best thing you can do is to ask your Billiard Table makers to put them right if possible. The trouble cannot be set right by anything it is in your power to accomplish, but you can guard against its repetition by instructing the marker to ask players to refrain from sandpapering the cues near the tip. There is no need for this, if cues are kept clean and rubbed over every now and then with a piece of dry soft paper. If the marker is ever again guilty of "sharpening" the end of a cue to make it fit a small tip, well, give him a hint that there are plenty of competent markers to be had who know better; even if the "sharpening" is but slight and accomplished by means of sandpaper, the harm is done. The sides of a cue should never be touched when tipping is performed. If the wood immediately under the leather tip becomes a little burred by long use, it is best to have the burred section replaced.
W.H.J. (London).—Except in forcing strokes, the cue should never be delivered from the shoulder, the swing from the elbow is quite enough for all ordinary strokes. As regards letting the cue go through the ball, this should always be done except when a screw back is played with the cue ball close to the object ball.
Querist (London). No, it is not an affectation which induces professional players to rub the cue ball on their shirt sleeve. This is done to remove any particle of chalk which may have adhered to the ball, and might cause it to "kick" if left undisturbed.