As some of our readers seem to think that rather more detailed reference to top-of-the-table play would be useful to them, we will again suppose that top-of-the-table position has, either by accident or design, been gained, although many evenings of long play might elapse before the necessary fortuitous grouping of the three balls occurred. For the red has to be on the spot, the white object ball a little above or below it, and the cue ball in such a position that it can either pot the red with certainty or make a cannon that leads to the potting of the red at the next stroke.
All this, doubtless, sounds complicated, but written directions, until they have been assimilated, have always a more or less complex note about them, and when they relate to billiards much depends upon whether they are read with a table, cue, and balls handy, or whether everything is left to the imagination.
Perhaps the mixing up of cannon with winning hazard movements may in itself be a complication, so for the moment we will leave the white object ball out of the question, and confine our attention to the red ball.
Fortunately there are only six main spot positions to master, and these are (1) when the cue ball is dead behind the red in a line to the pocket and a gentle screw back is the game, (2) when the direct line is to the upper shoulder of the pocket and the cue ball has to be brought round off two cushions with top and side—one of the prettiest strokes in billiards, (3) when the direct line is to the lower shoulder of the pocket and the cue ball is stunned, and so deflected somewhat near the spot, (4) when the direct line is a little below the lower shoulder and a very gentle three-quarter pot is the stroke, (5) when the angle is a plain half- ball pot bringing the cue ball back off the top cushion, and (6) when the angle is a three- quarter ball pot and the cue ball is stunned a little in order to bring it back off the top cushion at a rather squarer angle than it would otherwise take.
STROKE I.—To get used to the gentle screw-back, practise first across the table with the red ball on the pyramid spot. Place the cue ball nine inches behind the red, having previously made a small chalk-mark there and also three inches beyond the red. Shorten the hold of the cue in order to keep the butt end low and make a short bridge. The bouclée (or ring) bridge, in which the cue passes over the middle finger, is the safest for keeping the cue from dipping. Hold the cue lightly, aim for a cue contact midway between the centre of the ball and the cloth, and swing the cue lightly through the ball and to the chalk-mark three inches beyond it. On contact with the cue ball the cue will instinctively be pinched, but it must continue forward. The red should now return from the cushion and, if the stroke has been made accurately and with proper strength, collide with the cue ball at its resting place on the first chalk-mark.
STROKE II.—Running side and top are employed and the cue hold must be of the lightest and its action of the freest. The reason for this is that although the contact is almost full the cue ball has afterwards to take off from two cushions and come to rest near the spot. The plain-aim is a quarter of an inch beyond the red centre, but this would leave the cue ball for a cross in-off instead of the top-of-the-table game, so the aim with running side must be dead centre to make up for the shifting of the cue a quarter of an inch away from the cue ball centre, and the feet must be slightly adjusted to the new line of aim at the same time.
STROKE III.—This is an easier stroke than the last and only requires plain central cueing, with the aim a quarter of an inch below the red centre, but as a light hold of the cue would not deflect the cue ball sufficiently down the table it is held rather heavily and the result is a stun stroke and the desired position.
STROKE IV.—This is the easiest of all the spot strokes as nothing is asked for but very gentle plain cueing with a three-quarter ball contact.
STROKE V.—Another easy stroke, this time a plain half-ball. It may be, however, that something a little finer than half-ball may be required according to the position of the cue ball, and side may then have to be employed in order to get the proper deflection off the top cushion.
STROKE VI.—Not a difficult shot but one that needs the confidence that practice and constant success alone impart. The required contact with the red being a three-quarter one, the white would run too direct if not checked in some way, and the stroke has to be handled— except that the contact is less—as in Stroke III., when the somewhat heavy handling of the cue will both deaden the run of the white ball and also bring it straighter down from the top cushion to its proper place.