163.—"Spot ball strikes red and bounds on to cushion between cloth and mahogany and runs down the cushion and finally lands in bottom pocket. What is scored by pocket, or is ball forced from table and scores to plain? Does plain play next at red only, or are the balls spotted and broken?"
The score is made if a ball runs along the rail and enters a pocket or cannons, but if it remains stationary on the rail it is regarded as forced off the table and Rule XII. (B.A.) and Rule 4, clause d (B.C.C.) come into operation. This also answers a similar question by "Housekeeper."
164.—"Would you be good enough to inform me the year and date, if possible, when snooker pool was first introduced and played in England?"
The game of snooker pool was first introduced some twenty years ago.
165.—"When the D is changed from one end of the table to the other is it customary to continue brushing the table the same way or to change and brush from bottom to top?"
Always brush with the nap of the cloth.
166.—"When a foul has occurred, what is the usual course, viz., has the opponent any claim to have red spotted and white spotted on centre spot?"
White is spotted on centre and red at top after a foul except in one or two cases specified in the rules, in which the next striker can choose whether (a) the balls be spotted, or (b) whether he resumes from the position left.
167.—"In calling out the number of a pocket is it correct to call the pocket on the right at the D end No. 1 and the pocket on the left No. 6?"
The cushions and pockets are numbered from the left hand standing at the baulk end. Thus the bottom left-hand pocket and the bottom cushion are No. 1.
168.—"In the strokes that come between the natural angle and the right angle, are screw, stun, or forcing strokes the better play?"
As we have so often said, it is all a question of the position desired for the next stroke. When a shot cap be obtained in three different ways two questions naturally arise: (1) Which is the easiest? and (2) Which is the best? Advanced players first decide what position they want next and make such contact or use such compensation as is required to leave them what they desire.
169.—"An incident occurred in our billiard room recently in a handicap game. I (the marker) came in and called closing time, and the two gentlemen who were playing had not finished their game. I let them go on a little longer till I had to stop them. One gentleman's score was 94 and the other 59 in a hundred up, and instead of marking the places where the balls stopped, I was in such a hurry to get the gentlemen out that I knocked the balls into the pockets. I should like to know what I ought to do. The players cannot agree over it. The leader wants to start as they finished, making him want six for game, and the other wants to play the game over again. What should really be done?"
The game should be finished either by placing the balls as nearly as possible where they were (if both players agree) or by placing the red on spot, the next striker's ball in the D, and the other ball on the centre spot.
170.—"Could you tell me where I can get a good book on top-of-the-table play? I have been playing billiards about one year and six months and have made 40 and 50 breaks; and I often make 40 by losing hazard play. I average about two hours' practice a day. Could you tell me if I am progressing all right? I love billiards, and I get up at early hours of the morning to play and I wish I could play all day. I have scored 300 and over 400 in an hour against people."
"The Top-of-the-Table Game," by Stevenson, is published at 1s., and you can obtain it from Messrs. Burroughes and Watts, Ltd., Soho Square, W.
You seem to be doing very well indeed, but should avoid trying to score quickly by means of short breaks. The great secret of position play is to think first where the object ball will be left when playing in-offs and where the cue ball will be left when potting.
If such position would be unfavourable if the immediate stroke were played as intended the in-off or pot must be made by some slight variation, of which there are generally several to choose from.
171.—"Potting is my bugbear and I should be glad if you could kindly help me. I see players potting balls from all sorts of angles without even looking at the pocket, and I cannot imagine how it is done."
Although such players may not seem to look at the pocket, they have it in their eye all the same, and they draw a rapid imaginary line from the open part—which is all that they see—through the object ball and then note whether the point at which the line comes out is more or less than a quarter diameter from the centre as viewed over the centre of the cue ball. If more the aim is thicker than half-ball and if less it is finer. The intermediate aims (except the half-ball) are a matter of judgment, although they range either by half inches or quarter inches.
172.—"I can judge cushion cannons pretty well when the object ball is some distance from the cushion, but when it is near or close to the cushion I find it more difficult and the stroke often beats me. Is there any special way of doing these?"
If the first object ball is banked against the cushion the kiss has, of course, to be allowed for in fuller than half-ball contacts. Otherwise it is better to disregard the cushion altogether and judge the angle from the point beyond it which would form the apex of a triangle. You then know what contact is needed and whether side is, or is not, required. The best place to practise this stroke is with the red on the spot and the white near the top cushion above it.