156.—"Is it really a fact that proficiency in the top-of-the-table game cannot be obtained without a lifetime's practice?"
We have often seen this absurd statement made, and it is apparently believed in in some quarters, whereas the real facts must be obvious to all. Quite young players, such as Newman and Smith, are already making very useful runs at the top of the table, and even George Gray, who has been very loosely termed a "one stroke player," has made over a hundred at the top of the table without once going to baulk. For years Inman did not touch the top-of-the-table game, wisely taking care to perfect his losing hazard game first, but when he did turn his attention to it he was not long in discovering that it is only the wider-range game written small, and quickly mastered it. The chief essentials are accurate object ball direction and avoidance of covers. The routine chiefly aimed at is as follows: (1) Red on spot, with white just behind and cue ball a little below red to one side. Play very gently almost full on the red, moving it near to corner pocket, and white as little as possible. (2) Put red down with strength and/or compensation to bring cue ball to where it was before, but on the opposite side to that previously played from. In this way a lot of fives can be scored before the white reaches the top cushion, and we once saw Dawson make 50 more when it got there by the same alternate cannon and pot process. When the ideal position is lost a pot from the spot, with proper guidance of cue ball, may be necessary, or a gentle top cushion cannon off the white on to the spotted red, or a very gentle screw cannon.
With foresight accompanying each stroke and every silent object lesson remembered and profited by, the top-of-the-table game will yield a 100 break to a fairly efficient player who devotes half-an-hour a day to it within six months.
157.—"When making cushion cannons or pockets which are rather finer than half-ball is it better to use side as compensation or to take the object ball rather finer?"
This is a moot point, but we should say that accurate central striking has advantages which come very near to counterbalancing, and perhaps exceeding, the value of the margin for error permitted by the use of side.
158.—"Should the aim be varied for slow and fast strokes with side, also according to the distance to be travelled by the cue ball before contact?"
Side only operates on the cloth in slow strokes, and the aim allowance, in our opinion, is about a quarter of an inch for each quarter length travelled by the ball. When the cue is raised the allowance must be still greater. All this assumes that the position of the body is right and that the cue is working parallel with the line of aim.
159.—"Without giving a miss is there better play than to run the cue ball gently up against the opponent's ball?"
Masking is sometimes very effective, but it requires great care and judgment as well as sensitive strength. This is especially the case if done at a part of the board whence a gentle grazing stroke in reply may find a pocket and so open up a good game.
160.—"In The Billiard Monthly for May, on page 9, Question No. 142, you state that when a ball is forced off the table the non-striker has three options. Would you kindly let me know what rule this is under? We lately got a book of rules and, according to those rules, a ball forced off the table constituted a foul stroke, the penalty for a foul stroke being to spot both balls."
The B.C.C. rule (No. 18) as to ball or balls forced off table runs:"If, in consequence of a miss, the striker's ball is forced off the table, the non-striker shall add three to his score. If, after contact with another ball, striker's or any other ball is forced off the table the non-striker shall add two points to his score. For a foul stroke (see rule 17, clause d), the striker cannot score and his opponent plays from hand. His ball shall be placed on the centre spot, the red shall be spotted, and his opponent shall play from the D. The B.A. rules on the subject are as follows—Rule 25:"If the striker make a miss and force his ball off the table by the same stroke three points shall be scored to the non-striker. If the striker's ball hit another ball, and by the same stroke any or all of the balls be forced from the table two points shall be scored to the non-striker." Rule 36: "If the striker, after striking a ball, forces either his ball or any other ball off the table he cannot score, and his opponent may either follow on from the position in which the balls are left, or he may either break the balls himself or direct his opponent to do so."
It will thus be seen that under the B.C.C. rules the balls must be spotted, but that under the B.A. rules the non-striker has three options. It depends upon the rules under which a club or other organization elects to play.
161.—"What rule is followed for the purpose of leaving an opponent with a difficult shot if the stroke in hand is doubtful?"
The dangers chiefly to be apprehended are; (1) Leaving red over a pocket; (2) leaving easy cannon, and (3) leaving an easy losing hazard. The best thing to do is to ask yourself how you would like your opponent to play the stroke, and then take care that you play it differently yourself. In billiards, as in many other things," Evil is wrought by want of thought."
162.—"Is there any rule as to strength in taking a screw shot at distances less, or greater, than, say, a foot?"
Unless necessary for driving purposes or very accurate contact the best rule is to substitute fuller contact for strength. Strength at billiards is greatly obliged alike with screws and forcing shots. In practising, the effort should always be to ascertain what can be done with restrained, rather than with accentuated, strength.
Allowing for the same contact the strength should be increased at a greater distance than a foot, but up to this point right-angled half-ball screw can be quite easily made with quite gentle pace and low cueing.