Let us endeavour to set out a few definite facts which the student should endeavour to remember and apply at the outset of his practice. Later on he will do the correct thing instinctively.
1.—When an object ball is 24in. above the central baulk spot, and the cue ball is on an end baulk spot, the shot is a plain half-ball one into the middle pocket. If this shot be practised, with central striking and moderate strength, and if the object ball return down the exact centre of the table, the true half-ball angle as it appears to the eve at the range practised has been ascertained, and the stroke can be repeated with confidence at similar range at other parts of the table and into all pockets.
2.—With the object and cue ball in the same positions, place a third, or cannon ball, midway between the object ball and the pocket in a perfectly straight line. Repeat the former stroke, with the same care as to the direction to be taken by the object ball, and the cannon ball should be driven into the middle pocket. In other words, a perfect half-ball cannon should result and should serve as a guide to all other cannons of similar sort and range in any part of the table.
3.—When the red ball is on the billiard spot, and the cue ball is on an imaginary line drawn from the upper shoulder of a middle pocket to the centre of the red ball, the stroke is a plain half-ball stroke into the further corner pocket. If this shot be practised with central striking and moderate strength, and if the object ball return down the exact centre of the table, the true half-ball angle, as it appears to the eve at this range, has been ascertained, and if the stroke be reversed and the cue ball be placed on the upper shoulder of the top pocket the middle pocket half-ball in-off will be made.
4.—With the object ball still on the billiard spot, and the cue ball on an imaginary line drawn from the upper shoulder of a corner pocket to the centre of the red ball, the stroke is a plain half-ball stroke into the opposite corner pocket, and will, if accurately played, result in the red ball striking the side cushion fifteen inches above the middle pocket and coming nicely into position for middle pocket play.
5.—Finally, with the object ball on the pyramid spot, and the cue ball on a baulk end spot, there is an exact half-ball shot into a top corner pocket, and, if this stroke be played accurately and with proper strength, the object ball will strike the top and side cushions and come to rest a little below the middle pocket and some fifteen inches away from it.
One of the most important points to which attention has to be paid in billiards is what is known as "strength." After a while this becomes almost instinctive, as it does in bowls, golf, croquet, and other games played with a stationary ball, but at the outset there are certain definite strengths to be learned and practised, and these correspond, roughly, with table lengths.
Place the object ball on the baulk line and tap it crisply in its exact centre with a gentle stroke, using no more strength than will just carry it to the top of the table. Repeat the stroke in succession three times with increasing strength each time, and adding a table length to the run of the ball at each stroke. If the four lengths cannot be obtained with a free, flowing stroke administered on the exact centre of the ball, the cushions are dead and should be avoided for serious practice. A harder stroke than No. 4 is rarely required in billiards, just as no gentler stroke than No. 1 is required, except at a very short range.
Having become familiar with those four standard strengths apply them to actual strokes. Place the object ball at an easy half-ball angle very near a top pocket, and play No. 1 stroke (or, better and easier, No. 2 with drag) from baulk. This should leave another half-ball position into the opposite corner pocket. Now place the object ball on the pyramid spot and play the two-length stroke so as to bring the object ball down to the centre pocket. Next place the object ball on the centre spot and play the three length stroke, so as to bring the object ball below the centre pocket again after it has struck three cushions. Finally place the object ball a wide half-ball in the pyramid spot region, and play the four-length or forcing stroke into the top pocket from baulk, so as to bring the ball in and out of baulk and nicely into play.
Beginners invariably play all strokes too hard, and when making forcing strokes deem it necessary literally to "flog" the balls. The mischief is really in the swing and cue-hold.
The swing should recede from and follow through the cue ball like a golf swing, and the cue should simply be supported in a loop formed by the thumb and forefinger as in a sling.