"However much a table has been neglected it can almost always be made as good as new at a small cost, if you go to a good billiard table manufacturer. It is no more use employing an ordinary cabinet maker than it would be to send a gold watch to be repaired by a blacksmith."
So says "Billiards Simplified," and the advice is quite good. But it is even better to take such care of one's table that a drastic overhauling is rarely, if ever, required. To speak the truth a good billiard table deserves to be taken care of. Its life is practically endless and the pleasure that it affords is ceaseless. It is gratifying, too, when a friend drops in for an evening's play to hear him remark upon the perfect condition of the table. If he be a good player—and these are the best friends to invite for a game—he will probably make such a remark and will mean every syllable of it. If he be a poor or a careless player his appreciation of the playing conditions will be less warmly expressed, but even a poor player may have a kind of an instinct that one table is better than another, and such a table may as well be yours.
Here are a few practical hints, many of which are quite elementary, but all of which are worthy of attention.
The table should be brushed working from the baulk end to the spot end, and the brush may be used with either backward or forward movement to remove any deep chalk marks. Finally finish by brushing towards the spot end, and, just before ironing, use the brush in the same slow and continuous manner as with the iron. We have mentioned the brushing out of deep chalk marks, but really Spinks' green cue food should be used, as this obviates much of the extra labour that is involved where ordinary common chalk is employed.
When a table is in a very dusty room a duster steeped in cold water and wrung almost dry may be folded round the brush and used in the same manner as when ironing the table. This picks up dust that would otherwise be brushed through the cloth.
To heat the iron a gas stove or ordinary fire may be used but care must be taken that the iron is heated evenly. If the iron is hotter at one end it will mark and streak the cloth. The iron should also be quite clean (which can be done with emery cloth) and the heat of the iron should be tested on white paper or a cloth to make certain that it is not likely to scorch the cloth.
Now place the iron lightly on the table at the baulk end and move it broadside towards the spot end, and parallel with the side of the table. When the spot end is reached, lift up the iron, taking care that it does not touch the cushion, and return with it to the baulk end. Let the next swathe of the iron overlap the mark made previously and repeat the process to the centre of the table. Do the other side similarly, but now work the iron towards the side from the middle. This allows the heat to be distributed fairly over the entire cloth.
Be very particular not to allow the iron to press or slide against the cushions as by doing so the face of the cloth becomes polished and this will cause the balls to jump.
Never, under any circumstances, iron the cushions. The rubber used for a modern Burroughes and Watts' table needs no heating by any method. Should the table be thought slow attention must be paid to the cloth and if this is slack it should be stretched, as this will greatly improve the run of the balls.
A new cloth must always be stretched after being fixed a few months, and the cloth ought also to be taken off occasionally in order to have the slates cleared of dust beneath, which often prevents the balls from running truly.
A few miscellaneous hints may be given in conclusion:— 1.—Put any new spots on the table after ironing and not before.
2.—Do not lay cigars or cigarettes on the cushion rails whilst playing, as these burn and blister the polish.
3.—Do not sit on the table. This may force a cushion out of shape and cause balls to rebound at an incorrect angle.
4.—Have the leathers covering the pocket plates renewed as soon as they are worn through, otherwise the balls will strike the metal.
5.—Should a cloth be cut, do not interfere with it by glueing or gumming to the slate. Matters are often made worse in this manner, and it is far better to send for a practical man.