Last month we said:—"The point of aim in screw and tight cushion kiss strokes is where two lines at equal angle converge from the cue ball to the objective." Several subscribers have asked us to make this a little clearer and we will, therefore, put it thus:—"The aim in fuller than halfball screw and tight cushion strokes is on the surface of the object ball on an imaginary line drawn from its centre which bisects the angle made by two other lines converging upon such centre from the centres of the cue ball and the second objective. Thus a half-ball screw or kiss is aimed at the edge and the aim is proportionately fuller for acuter angles up to the straight drawback or kiss
When the red is on the, spot try to get to hand with a stroke that will leave the white in position for the drop cannon. When the red is over a pocket try to get to hand with a stroke that will leave the white behind the billiard spot and then follow with a pot stroke that guides the cue ball into gentle cannon position at the spot. Sometimes a little preliminary manoeuvring may be necessary, but the end to be attained should be steadily kept in view.
In playing cushion cannons with side, be sure and play fine enough, and when the fine stroke is not on, play very full. This equally applies when the object ball is against a cushion. Run through in all strokes when the possibility of the fine stroke is doubtful, and a kiss will not result. Run through strokes are more often good position strokes than are fine strokes.
When you have nothing better to do place a piece of chalk or anything else measuring a shade over ¾ inch in height on the billiard table and a ball close behind it. Now lay your cue tip on the chalk and you have found the vertical centre of the ball, and the place to hit in all plain strokes, although you may not think so.
Any stroke can be made or position secured by the use of nine contacts, and the aim progresses by quarter inches from dead straight to grazing ball, with the edge of the object ball as the half-way house. The half-inch stages, however, cover the overwhelming majority of necessary contacts.
Chalk lightly and often—lightly because you need not then tap the cue against the handsome rail of an expensive billiard table, and often because you maintain in this way the grip of the cue tip on the ball.
With cue-tip fasteners a small file is provided. Have this in your pocket when playing and tap your cue tip if it becomes shiny or chalk-clogged. This is much better than sand-papering.
Don't move the feet or bridge after settling down to the stroke. The correct body alignment should be made in the acts of sighting and bending, which are practically simultaneous.
If you have a private table don't leave your cue standing against a wall or in the rack. Lay it on the table under the cloth. This is even better for it than being in a case.
Play no stroke carelessly, or you may thereby let your opponent in for a break, and this will annoy you.