A point with regard to billiards that cannot be too soon grasped by the earnest student is that there are not really very many strokes in the game. Strokes often look very different when they are alike, and they are played differently simply because they are not recognised. The whole art of billiards consists in, first and foremost, the proper swing of the cue; secondly, proper ball contact; and, thirdly, proper cue contact and strength. To be sure these three things involve a great deal, but it will be found on consideration that the entire science and art of billiards are covered by them.
Assuming that the cue swing is all right—which means (1) that it is always drawn back instead of being poked; (2) that in the actual stroke it goes as far past the ball as it has been taken back; and (3) that it is held lightly, and (except when necessarily raised for screw or masse purposes or in hampered positions) works dead straight both vertically and horizontally—we come to the questions of ball and cue contacts and requisite strength. And here we shall find that a little practice with the three spots of the D as a base, and with the baulk line and baulk pockets as objectives, will serve to enlighten us considerably as to the sort of contacts and strengths that are required for certain strokes in various parts of the table.
(1) Let the red ball be placed on the middle spot of baulk and the white ball on one of the end spots. This is a plain half-ball stroke into the farther baulk pocket, and should be played with just sufficient strength to leave the red nicely placed for a half-ball stroke into the middle pocket on the same side of the table.
(2) Shift the white ball half a diameter, or one inch, up the table and play three-quarter ball through it with the same strength as before, and this will find the same pocket and bring the red again into middle pocket half-ball position, but on the same side of the table as the player. It will be observed that the ball has travelled farther this time, on account of the fuller contact.
(3) Place the balls again in the same position as in paragraph 2 and play quarter-ball into the same pocket, but this time a little more freely, on account of the thinner contact, and the same position as in paragraph 1 will be left. (It will be noted that the last two shots are, respectively, driving and cutting shots, which have varied the direction of the object ball and necessitated variation in strength, whilst the same pocket has been entered from the same position in each case—a valuable object lesson.)
(4) Place the red ball again on the centre spot and the white ball close to an end spot, but this time half a diameter below the spot, instead of above it. The plain half-ball shot here would land the ball on the upper shoulder of the pocket, but if a little running side be employed, the cue ball will fall nicely into the net and the red ball will come to the same position as in paragraph 1.
(5) Place the red ball at one end of the D instead of in the centre and replace it on the centre spot with the white ball. This is a gentle quarter-ball screw, and should leave the red in the middle of the table, two feet out of baulk, in position for the "Gray" shot—or an equal half-ball into either middle pocket.
(6) With the same placing, play a gentle three-quarter stun shot into the same pocket, bringing the red to the half-ball position for the middle pocket on the same side as the player. (To make the stun shot pinch the cue a little and strike the cue ball slightly below the centre.)
(7) Bring back the white ball to the end spot, still leaving the red ball on the other end spot, and play an easy half-ball screw into the pocket, bringing the red ball once more into middle pocket half-ball position, on the same side of the table as the player. (When the balls are more than a foot apart, the old rule that a half-ball screw is exactly a right angle ceases to apply, and the same strength is required at two feet distance, with a half-ball contact, to make the cue ball diverge half a right angle.
This consideration leads naturally to the remaining paragraph.
(8) Place the red ball on the centre spot of the D and the cue ball on the semi-circle behind it, also in the central line of the table. Screw half-ball at any pace, and the cue ball will run at right angles along the baulk line. Screw three-quarter ball, and the cue ball will enter the baulk corner pocket. Screw full, and the cue ball will return to the cue. The intermediate shots bringing the cue ball midway on to the side and bottom cushion are, of course, five-eighths and seven-eighths. (In all these strokes the direction of the red ball should be carefully watched, and the eye will soon become trained to its movements. The point where contact should be made in screw strokes is at the point of an equal angle between the cue ball and the second objective. Side should not be used in screwing into open pockets or in cannoning unless nap deflection or cushion assistance is to be derived from side. In screwing into blind pockets side is, of course, employed.