Take special pains over the first two or three strokes in each innings. This both helps position and plays you into your game.
Don't be afraid of those wide slow cushion cannons up the table. Strike gently and aim full on the object ball with plenty of running side. Contact will then be half-ball and the side will do the rest.
In placing in-offs from baulk keep your ball in your hand until you have decided the after position. If this can be obtained with half-ball place accordingly. If quarter or three-quarter, place for chipping or driving stroke. A long sequence of in-offs can be made with these three contacts.
Remember that aim for quarter-ball is half-an-inch outside edge and for three-quarter-ball half-an-inch inside edge and that either stroke finds the pocket with balls in the same position. It is merely a question of where you want to leave the object ball.
The two eternal mental questions in position play (with other than half-ball contacts) are: "Thick or thin"? - "Free or slow"? If, in playing down the table, even a slow shot would separate the balls too much play freely on the object ball and bring it back from the bottom cushion.
Beware of playing slow and uncertain cannons from a distance off the white. If you miss, a sure cannon is almost certainly left for your opponent.
When opposed to a stronger player it is always wise to adopt safety tactics when you cannot clearly see another stroke ahead. But if this essential is provided for, go out for the stroke and you will at least know that you have played the game. Improvement lies this way.
One of the best cue tips in billiards is to make as many aims dead at the edge of the object ball as position requirement will allow. This is something fixed and definite, and is a veritable sheet anchor. Take that slow cushion cannon up the table when the two balls are a foot from the side cushion and a couple of feet apart. Slow check side aimed at edge means three-quarter contact and a pretty half run-through.
Why be afraid of drag strokes? You know that you are always losing the ball in baulk after a long range loser in which the object ball strikes only the top cushion. By hitting low and holding the cue loosely you can still play freely and leave another certain in-off if you have spotted correctly.
In playing in-offs give first thought to run of object ball. Ask yourself whether it has to strike, one, two, or three cushions or none at all, and apply necessary strength and contact. In potting reverse the process and take care to leave cue ball well placed.
When playing at the top of the table get back to baulk the moment the next position seems doubtful. This is a golden rule. The way back to baulk is usually by way of a thin in-off leaving drop cannon or middle pocket.
The broad principle for top of the table play is retention of the white ball above (or near to) spot with the cue ball almost always below spot. If ever left above it is with the intention of getting below next stroke either with gentle cannon or pot.
Rail cannons are made by keeping the two object balls in front of the cue ball and the questions that arise (apart from plain half-ball touches) are mainly: "Running or check side"? Quarter or three-quarter contact"? It is really the ordinary cannon game written small.
Don't forget the chalk.